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Valencia, España

Northern Spain Campervan Route: Valencia to the Basque Country in 10-12 Days

Atlantic cliffs instead of Mediterranean coves, pintxos instead of paella: a route for those who want to see a different Spain.

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The road north is the most contrasting route from Valencia. In a week and a half you will cross the landscapes of Aragon, medieval cities, the vineyards of La Rioja and reach the Atlantic coast, where green hills plunge into the ocean. The Basque Country is the gastronomic capital of Europe, and that reason alone is worth 600 kilometres of driving. The route is a loop: north via Teruel and Zaragoza, back via La Rioja. The total distance is around 1,600 km — the unlimited-mileage option is especially worth it for this trip. Best time: May to September.

Day 1: Valencia — Teruel (145 km)

We leave on the A-23 into the mountains. An hour and a half later, Teruel: a city of Mudejar architecture protected by UNESCO, with brick-and-coloured-tile towers, a cathedral with a painted ceiling known as the Sistine Chapel of the Mudejar style, and the legend of the Lovers of Teruel. In the evening, Teruel cured ham — Spain's first ham with a protected designation of origin — and local wine. Overnight: area de autocaravanas Teruel, free, 15 minutes' walk from the centre.

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Day 2: Teruel — Albarracin — Zaragoza (220 km)

Morning: 40 minutes to Albarracin, one of the most beautiful villages in Spain — pink houses above the gorge, medieval walls along the hillside, a labyrinth of medieval lanes. Arrive at opening time, before the tourist coaches. After lunch, drive to Zaragoza. At dusk, the Basilica del Pilar on the banks of the Ebro, the domes reflected in the river during the blue hour. Overnight: area de autocaravanas Zaragoza (Valdefierro).

[ foto: dia-2-albarracin-zaragoza ]

Day 3: Zaragoza — Pamplona (175 km)

Morning, Zaragoza: the Aljaferia Palace (an 11th-century Arab palace that inspired the architects of the Alhambra), the Mercado Central and the El Tubo tapas quarter. After lunch, 2 hours to Pamplona, the city of Hemingway and San Fermin. Walk the encierro route — the path the bulls run in July, from the corrals to the bullring. Plaza del Castillo and Cafe Iruna, where Hemingway used to sit. Overnight: area Trinitarios by the river, 15 minutes' walk from the old town.

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Days 4-5: Pamplona — San Sebastian (80 km)

One hour across the green hills of Navarre and you reach the Atlantic. San Sebastian is a city everyone falls in love with: La Concha bay with its perfect beach, the belle epoque promenade, the old town with the world's highest concentration of pintxos bars. Two days minimum: one day for the city (morning swim, Monte Urgull, pintxos tour through Parte Vieja in the evening — start at Gandarias, continue at La Cuchara de San Telmo: one pintxo and one drink per bar, then move on), another day for the surroundings (Zurriola beach for surfers, or the fishing village of Getaria — birthplace of Balenciaga and home to the finest grilled fish). The view over the bay from Monte Igueldo is the most famous panorama in northern Spain. Overnight: area Berio — in summer, book online a month in advance.

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Days 6-7: San Sebastian — coast — Bilbao (100 km)

Don't go direct: the coastal road through the fishing villages is a highlight in itself. Zarautz (the longest beach in the Basque Country, surfing capital), Lekeitio (a harbour with an island you can reach on foot at low tide), Gaztelugatxe — the Game of Thrones staircase rock: 241 steps to the chapel; ring the bell three times and make a wish (in summer a free online booking is required). Bilbao greets you with the titanium curves of the Guggenheim — even if modern art leaves you cold, Gehry's building and Louise Bourgeois's spider are worth the visit. Overnight: area Kobetamendi on the hill, with a panoramic view of the city.

[ foto: dia-6-gaztelugatxe-bilbao ]

Day 8: Bilbao — La Rioja (130 km)

An hour and a half south, the vineyards of La Rioja, Spain's wine capital. Base yourself in Haro or medieval Laguardia on its hilltop (motorhomes are not allowed inside the old town; park beside the walls; the village is honeycombed with wine cellars). Wineries with tours: Marques de Riscal (the building is also by Gehry), Lopez de Heredia in Haro, or small family bodegas where the tasting is more intimate and cheaper. Important: wine tasting is for passengers; the driver tastes in the evening at the stopover. Overnight: area Haro or Laguardia.

[ foto: dia-8-rioja ]

Day 9: La Rioja — Soria — Calatayud (250 km)

A long but beautiful stage across the Castilian mesetas. Lunch in Soria, a quiet city on the Duero, immortalised by Antonio Machado. If energy remains: the monastery of San Juan de Duero with its surrealist arches. Overnight: area in Calatayud.

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Day 10: Return to Valencia (230 km)

A gentle descent from the mountains towards the Mediterranean. At noon you are back in Valencia — time for a last paella before returning the vehicle. Option for 12 days: add a day in San Sebastian (you will never regret it) and a day in La Rioja visiting the monasteries of San Millan — the birthplace of the Spanish language.

[ foto: dia-10-regreso ]

Practical tips

  • 1Budget: a 10% long-stay discount applies for 10 nights. We recommend the unlimited-mileage option: with 1,600 km to cover, the peace of mind is worth it.
  • 2Weather: northern Spain is not the Costa Blanca. Even in August, evenings are 15-18 degrees and rain is possible. The motorhome has heating; bring your own warm clothes.
  • 3Stopovers: campervan culture in Euskadi is highly developed — there is an area in every town, most free or 5-10 euros. Every spot is on Park4Night.
  • 4Dimensions: do not drive the motorhome into Albarracin, Laguardia or the old town of San Sebastian — all three have parking beside the walls.
  • 5Fuel: diesel is cheapest on the A-23 and AP-68 motorways at fuel stations attached to supermarkets.

Ready for the adventure?

Book your campervan in Valencia and start the adventure.

Our McLouis Yearling 89G is made for long routes like this one: efficient diesel, heating for the cool northern evenings, a full kitchen and a solar panel for self-sufficient nights among the vineyards.

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